Chef Austin Leslie's recipes for his legendary fried chicken (and potato salad) (2024)

Talk about fried chicken in New Orleans, and somebody is going to bring up the late restaurateur Austin Leslie. Throughout his career, at Chez Helene, Jacques-Imo's and Pampy's, the man was known for his exceptional fried chicken.

He had a signature garnish: minced garlic and parsley and a slice of dill pickle. He explains in his "Austin Leslie's Creole-Soul" cookbook that he was barely out of middle school when he worked for Bill Turner at Portia's Restaurant on Rampart Street. The garnish on their fried chicken was dill pickles, which became Leslie's signature for 50 years.

As chefs tendto do, Leslie gave different versions of his fried chicken recipe over the years. In 2001, when he was interviewed by The Times-Picayune, the printed recipe included evaporated milk in the egg wash, and the garnishes were not mentioned.

John T. Edge included Leslie in his 2004 book, "Fried Chicken: An American Story." He notes that the chef gave out different recipes at different times, and comes up with his version of Leslie's chicken, adding Creole seasoning to the salt and pepper. He noted that the evaporated milk gives a slight sweetness to the recipe. Edge's version of Leslie's recipe was later adapted, yet again, by Food and Wine magazine.

Instead of evaporated milk, the "Creole-Soul" cookbook's chicken recipe includes light cream or half and half in the egg wash. More amounts are specified, and the garnishes are all there. The cookbook includes several chicken-frying tips, and even a good one for reheating fried chicken.

Both the story and the cookbook reference an unorthodox technique. Leslie told reporter Constance Snow:

"Turn the chicken with tongs, and when it's almost done, use a big meat fork (two prongs) to puncture the chicken, to let the oil go through to the bone," Leslie said. "Then you pick it up and squeeze it with the tongs. That keeps it from being greasy. You should puncture the breast about five times, and poke the thigh right around the hip socket. You don't have to pierce the wings; they don't need it."

The cookbook directs the cook to puncture the chicken after about 8 minutes of cooking with a heavy two-pronged fork, which "allows just a little bit of oil to seep into the thickest parts to cook the meat all the way to the bone. Don't worry, when you master the technique the way Austin has, your chicken will not be greasy."

Here's the recipe shared in The Times-Picayune. To save this and the nextrecipe to your Recipe Box,click on the blue box at the top right.

Chef Austin Leslie's Famous Fried Chicken

Makes 8 pieces

• 1 (2- to 3-pound) fryer, cut into 8 pieces

Wash and drain chicken pieces. Season to taste with salt and pepper. (If not cooking right away, prepare up to this point and refrigerate. Bring just to room temperature before proceeding.)

Heat oil to 350 degrees in a deep fryer or large, heavy deep skillet. Meanwhile, beat eggs with evaporated milk and one can (five ounces) of water. Season well with salt and pepper.

Dip each chicken piece into the egg wash, squeezing to drain off excess liquid; then roll in flour to coat thoroughly. Shake off excess flour, then drop coated chicken into preheated oil. Do not crowd.

Fry, turning often with tongs, until evenly browned and cooked through, about 15 minutes for larger pieces (thigh, breast, leg) and 10 minutes for wings. When almost done, pierce each piece several times with a meat fork to allow hot oil to penetrate to the bone; then squeeze with the tongs. (It is not necessary to pierce wings.) Drain well and serve.

The "Austin Leslie's Creole-Soul" tips for frying a chicken:

Keep the oil clean and temperature even. Bring chicken to room temperature before frying.

Don't let milk soak into the skin or the sugars in the milk will cause chicken to turn black.

The perfect size bird to work with at home is 2-1/2 to 3 pounds.

Fry the heavy parts (thigh, breast and leg) first. Put the wings in last. But never crowd your pan or fryer.

Be sure to use an oil that can withstand high heat for relatively long periods of time, such as peanut oil, lard or shortening.

This is the recipe from that cookbook.

Austin's Fried Chicken

Makes 4 servings

• 1-1/2 cups peanut oil for frying

Preheat oil in frying pan or deep fryer to 350 degrees. Wash chicken pieces under cold water and pat dry. Sprinkle with salt and pepper.

Make egg batter by combining egg, cream, water, salt and pepper. Dip pieces first in egg batter to coat and then in flour. Add chicken pieces to skillet or fryer, meatiest parts first. Do not crowd.

Turn to brown on all sides. If oil pops, reduce flame. Cook until meat is tender and skin is crisp, about 10 to 12 minutes. Garnish with pickles, parsley and garlic.

Reheating hint: Bring to room temperature and heat, uncovered at a slow heat, about 300 degrees.

And for a little lagniappe, here's his potato salad recipe as well, adapted from "Austin Leslie's Creole-Soul." Note that it has no mayonnaise. Presumably, the "red pepper" means cayenne.

To save this to your Recipe Box, click here.

Austin Leslie's Potato Salad

Makes 8 to 10 servings

• 3 pounds Idaho potatoes

Peel and dice potatoes. Boil until tender but still firm. Drain and cool for 30 minutes.

Place potatoes in bowl and add all ingredients except salt and pepper. Mix until well blended. Add salt and pepper to taste and refrigerate until time to serve. Taste again before serving; refrigeration tends to hide the flavor of the salt.

Food editor Judy Walker can be reached at jwalker@nola.com.Follow her on Twitter (@JudyWalkerCooks) and Facebook JudyWalkerCooks.

by Caspio

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