Sweet sensations: Yotam Ottolenghi's brussels sprout recipes

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Yotam Ottolenghi recipes

Don't leave it until next Christmas before you cook brussels sprouts again

Yotam Ottolenghi

Fri 17 Jan 2014 21.00 GMT

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Brussels sprouts aren't just for Christmas, they're for life – or atleast until the season ends in March. Though I suppose that does rather depend on whether or not you have the TAS2R38 gene, which affects your tongue. That name may not be quite as catchy as "yum" or "yuck", admittedly, but it does provide a genetic explanation for why people either love or loathe brussels sprouts. I'm sure the true reasons for our food preferences are way more mysterious and complex, but TAS2R38 is a good place to start.

This gene makes a protein that reacts with a chemical called PTC to create the sensation of bitterness. While PTC does not feature in the normal human diet, it is very similar to chemicals found in brassicas. Youeither have the gene variant or you don't, so you can either taste PTC or you can't; and, by the same token, you can either taste the bitterness insprouts, or you can't. (For a more thorough explanation, have a look at from 2011.)

The science bit aside, the fact remains that some people find certain foodstuffs more unbearably bitter than others do – as will be all too clear to anyone who has ever seen achild's face when "made" to eat abrussels sprout. Infants have around 30,000 tastebuds, only about a third of which survive into adulthood, so a child's sensitivity towards extremes of sweet, sour andbitter flavours is heightened. Ergo, coffee and beer are bad; chocolate ice-cream and tomato ketchup good.

But there are ways to take the edge off the bitterness of sprouts, and so help us appreciate them forthe tender and sweet little cabbages thatthey are. The most important ofthese is not to overcook them. Why anyone boils sprouts when they could roast or frythem is one of life's great mysteries; or at least it is tome. Boiling brussels for too long makes them lose their vibrant colour, plustheir natural sweetness leaches out into the water; it also pervades the kitchen with a smell that will put kids off for life. Toss sprouts in olive oil, however, then roast or fry them, and you'll intensify that natural sweetness. If you want, add more sweet elements: caramelised garlic, pomegranate seeds, maple syrup are all good.

It's not just sugar that offsets bitterness: salty and sour flavours dothe job, too, as do creamy, spicy or nutty elements. Salty anchovies or bacon, sour lemon or lime juice, parmesan shavings, fresh or dried chilli, toasted almonds and fried croutons all help balance the taste.

Brussels sprout risotto

A sprout risotto? You'd better believe it. Even my recipe tester, Claudine, had misgivings, but she totally loved it. Serves four.

30g unsalted butter
2 tbsp olive oil
2 medium onions, peeled and finelychopped
2 large garlic cloves, peeled andcrushed
2 tbsp picked thyme leaves
2 lemons, 1 shaved into long strips of zest and 1 finely grated
300g risotto rice
500g trimmed brussels sprouts, 200g shredded and 300g quartered
200ml dry white wine
900ml vegetable stock
Salt and black pepper
About 400ml sunflower oil
40g parmesan, roughly grated
60g dolcelatte, broken up into roughly 2cm chunks
10g tarragon, chopped
2 tsp lemon juice

Put the butter and olive oil in a large frying pan over a medium-high heat. When the oil is hot and the butter melted, add the onion and fry for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until soft and lightly caramelised. Add the garlic, thyme and lemon strips, and cook for two minutes more. Add the rice and shredded sprouts, and cook for a minute, stirring frequently. Pour over the wine and let it simmer for a minute before you start adding the stock, a teaspoon of salt and agood grind of pepper. Reduce the heat to medium and carry on adding the stock ladle by ladle, stirring often, until the rice is cooked but still retains a bite, and all the stock is used up – about 15-20 minutes.

While the rice is cooking, pour the sunflower oil into a second large saucepan; it should come 2cm up the sides. Place on a high heat and, once very hot, use a slotted spoon to add a handful of the quartered sprouts, making sure they are completely dry first; they will still splutter, so be careful. Fry for less than a minute, until golden and crisp, then transfer to plate lined with kitchen paper. Keep warm while you fry the remaining sprouts.

Add the parmesan, dolcelatte, tarragon and half the fried sprouts to the risotto and stir gently. Serve at once, spooning on the remaining sprouts and topping with the grated lemon zest and a dribble of juice.

Brussels sprout and ginger slaw

This will leave you with lots more mayonnaise than you need for this dish, but it's not really worth making in any smaller quantities. On the bright side, it keeps in the fridge for at least a week, so use what's left for something else. If you have one, use a mandolin to cut the vegetables into even lengths. Serves four to six.

300g brussels sprouts, shredded
300g carrots, peeled and julienned
70g ginger, peeled and julienned
1 shallot, peeled and thinly sliced
2 red chillies, deseeded and julienned
100g Greek yoghurt
10g coriander, chopped
10g tarragon, chopped
2 tbsp lime juice
2 tbsp black sesame seeds (or white if you can't get them)
60g roasted and salted peanuts
Salt

For the mayonnaise
1 egg
2½ tsp Dijon mustard
2 tsp caster sugar
3 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed
2 tbsp cider vinegar
500ml sunflower oil

To make the mayonnaise, put the egg, mustard, sugar, garlic and vinegar in the small bowl of afoodprocessor, and add half ateaspoon of salt. With the motor running, very slowly pour in the oilin a light, steady stream, and whisk until combined. Keep in the fridge until needed.

Sweet sensations: Yotam Ottolenghi's brussels sprout recipes | Food (2024)

Brussels sprout risotto

Brussels sprout and ginger slaw

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